Seamwork Mesa Dress

Hi Lovelies, 

I'm bringing you another make that should have been blogged 100 years ago. So much so that I would argue that its got a bit big with weight loss. Ah well, here is Seamwork Magazine's Mesa.

I made this as a basic for winter. I live in Mabel skirts and simple jersey shift dresses around the colder months of the year. They are my super secret pyjamas especially when teamed with leggings and boots. Being in and out of buildings and different classrooms it helps to layer up!

I found that the Mesa is a bit more sacklike than I would like and so I have belted it here. I normally would style it with a long belted cardigan and a big scarf but you don't get to see a lot of the dress that way so I left that off for photos.

I have a love hate relationship with Seamwork. At first I was loving the two patterns every month but the last 6 months or so I feel that the patterns have felt like more of an afterthought and I haven't spent my credits for a very long time. In the end I was pleased you could redeem 3 for a Colette Pattern. I ended up getting Aster, Laurel and Wren. None of these patterns are ones I would've purchased but I'm happy enough to try them out for a few credits I had extra.

I'd love to know what others feel about Seamwork and Colette at the moment as I'm not sure they are the same quality of company they used to be.

Mr. Piemaker bought me a tripod for Christmas to get me back into blogging but it took some doing getting used to using my remote and everything again. I decided to get a bit silly and try some new poses. (Having some Bruno Mars on in the background helped!)

This pattern was an easy, quick and dirty kind of project. If I was to make this again I would make a size down and I would go for a patterned jersey. I made it in a ponte and it was a nice choice but it felt a bit uncomfortable and a bit dull. This could have been the quality of the ponte but I think it was just a bit too structured for me. This is evident in the sleeve head which could be partly pattern based. I tried to counteract this by trimming the excess in the seam but it made very little difference. 

I have to say I like the last picture I took. I feel like I look like a Hogwarts wizard with my remote wand!

Have you made Mesa? What do you think about sewing Seamwork Patterns?

Harriet Bra and Geneva Knickers

You guys! I've been sewing! To be honest I never left the Blogosphere, i've been lying low you could say. 

So whats new? I'm now Mrs. Piemaker! We got married on the 3rd of September and the run up pretty much left me totally exhaustiflated not much time for anything really. 

(We still haven't received our photos but when we do that is a post for another day.)

At the start of 2017 I made the decision to start doing more things that made me happy and one of the biggest things i'd missed recently was blogging and connecting with all the lovely people in this little corner of the interwebs. 

So i'm back. I have a backlog of projects to blog but my output this year is going to be focused on more long term goals in my sewing than sheer magnitude.

In the time since I last popped my head in, I've lost quite a bit of weight. I did it mainly for the wedding but i'm still keeping with it, so a lot of clothes had to go, including some well loved me mades. I'm working on building my skills this year so that I can make more wearable garments that last.

Now on to todays main event!

I made a freaking bra guys!

This has been on my to do list for like ever.

I bought some kits way back in 2013 but never had the confidence to give it a go. I decided this week that it was a totally irrational fear and with the release of the stunning Harriet Bra from Cloth Habit, i dug out this Electric Blue Kit from Sewing Chest (No longer available, well it was years ago!) and got cracking.

Now I'm not clever enough to have just done this by mere instructions alone, no no I had bought the Beverly Johnson's Sewing Bras, Construction and Fit Craftsy Class a while ago and watched it in stages. I made sure before I started, I watched the whole construction portion of the video and I made an order of construction with my own diagram to help me along,

then I tackled the cutting. 

Bra making really does look scary without a kit and when I attempted it all those years ago I bought various bits of cupro and elastic expecting it to all make sense, it totally didn't and I still have some half cut up bras that are wasted because I didn't have the right tools. Trust me lovelies, buy a bra kit first. It made it so much easier having everything to hand!

After watching the class I used some cute post it notes to label each elastic I had so that I wouldn't grab the wrong one whilst sewing. Then I set up my laptop with the instructions, (great to scroll up and down quickly,) put on some soothing, relaxing music from Spotify and set to it. 

This took me about 8 hours from cutting to finish over two days so all in all not too bad timewise. 

Beverly Johnson says at the end of the class if you finish and you've got cup issues there isn't a lot that can be done unless you want to cut up your bra, its more a pattern issue. So I went in to this expecting an unwearable bra. 

I was half right. I used the high bust and bust measurement to determine my bra size and it came out at a 38D. My ready to wear recently has been a 36/34 D so I was a little surprised. I persevered and low and behold my band was too big and my cup could do with going down too.

It is wearable but more as an "in house" bra although I am surprised at the comfort already even when its a little large!

There won't be any photos of me in it as I don't fancy that doing the rounds at the school I work at thank ya very much! But here it is on Evelyn who is a size 16.

Its much more flattering on her! 

I also had some issues with the sides. They seem very high up into my underarm so I might take a little out from the outer cup. I also had some wrinkling at the top of the cup indicating the cup is too large. In my next go I will cut a 36C and see if that corrects it. If not, I think taking out some seam between the upper and inner cup may help.

I felt that after all that effort making a bra it would be silly not to have something to match it.

These are the Geneva panties from Seamwork. These are made from a knicker kit I bought with my bra kit all those years ago from Sewing Chest. I'm one of those people that buys 2 pairs of pants for every bra then forgets to wear them together! 

I think I have to re-evaluate my sizing on things since I lost weight. I wasn't thinking when I cut an XL in these. I could easily have cut a medium, they are huge! Wearable but again more in the house than out on the town. 

(Hah as if we do that anymore!)

These went together like a dream and left me wondering why on earth I haven't attempted underwear before. I wanted to keep the scallops on the lace visible so the waistband elastic is sewn in pieces rather than one band. As it turns out I would've been just as happy without the scallops but by the time I thought about it i'd run out of my blue picot.

I'm chalking this down to a learning experience but i've totally got the undies making bug!

I bought a couple more kits from Elise Patterns to try out and I'm going to focus on getting Harriet fitting just right (oh would you look at that they have an electric blue kit just like mine!)

I can't speak highly enough of the Clothspot Harriet Pattern, her instructions are great with detailed diagrams and the steps don't overwhelm you. I can't wait to make another!

* This post was featured in Social Sew and Emerald Erin's Bra News

Completed: Grainline Hemlock...

Hi all, jumping in with a quick and speedy project today, yet another Grainline pattern,

(sorry not sorry.) I love Jen's patterns and they are a slightly different aesthetic to my closer fitting makes but man, I love every pattern of hers I've ever made and most of them are worn regularly 

(Archer, Hemlock, Scout, Moss and Tiny Pocket Tank are all on my completed list.) I am turning slightly fangirl with Grainline but hey, they work for me!

Hemlock is a FREE! pattern that was released a little while back, just in one size which for someone like me (Size 14 on top) strikes horror into my heart. I printed this out and put it on the back burner for a while thinking I would have to grade it up but when I bought 3m of this ahhhmazing grey and neon pink jersey from Fabric Godmother. I knew I was going to have to make myself a top (or three.) I knew it wouldn't be as drapey and oversized as it is on Jen but I wanted to test the water with a closer fit anyway, I'm not sure if off the shoulder is for me.

 I measured the bust of the hemlock pattern and realised that with the stretch in the jersey I'd probably be ok. I had it cut and sewn in a couple of hours! All in all the fit is pretty much where I wanted it.

Now I'll go back to my original comment about my aesthetic. My bust and hips are wide. They are balanced by a proportionally smaller waist which I take full advantage of. This top doesn't allow me to do that, as a loose (ish) fitting shape does nothing for flattering curves.

That being said I really enjoy wearing this top and the drop shoulders are a style feature I really like, maybe this style is something I could warm to? Its so comfy and I wore it all weekend so I can see it being in regular rotation.

There are a couple of changes I might make:

Being such a shortarse the sleeves just hit my wrists instead of mid forearm, I prefer this and might lengthen them a smidge more to get the balance right with the dropped shoulder seam. I may try it graded up larger to see how I like the drapey effect, I don't think its worth skimming in at the waist as that would take away from the style of the pattern. I could potentially shorten the hem as I did quite a wide invisible hem and it drags ever so slightly. I think my next incarnation of this pattern may be in a plain colour, it could be luscious in a dark indigo blue silk jersey! This could work really well with a really large loud print too!

Stats:

Fabric: 3m of Grey and Neon Pink Striped Jersey £7pm in Fabric Godmother Sale £21

(still loads left!)

Notions: Thread Fabric Godmother £1.75

Total: £22.75

Wearability: 8/10 I love wearing it, but the shape might have to grow on me a bit! I'll make sure not to count any more yardage of this fabric if I make something else with it, if I can squeeze 3 tops out of it then this top is more like £8.75 to make which is probably a bit less than I would've paid for it on the high street.

Have you made Hemlock? How did it work for your body?

Fabric Godmother Dream Wardrobe: Grainline Scout Tee

Hello Lovelies!

Remember my last post on Fabric Godmother's Dream Wardrobe? Well, my Grainline Scout Tee Josie picked out for me is done and I love it!

A woven t-shirt is not something I've worn very often, its a newish silhouette for me. I have a couple of Boden tank like tops that I wear to work in the summer (more like a Tiny Pocket Tank) but nothing like this with sleeves. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised at how much I like this look. Its certainly much less fitted than I go for but its a really great pattern to show off a really special fabric. The fabric Josie picked is a lovely buttery viscose. It washed beautifully and although it did need ironing (never a good thing in my book!) it softened under the iron to an almost silky hand. The print is a lovely blend of indigo, turquoise, sky blue and hints of mustard on a parchment like background. All colours I love and wear often. In fact I've been hunting for similar fabrics as its inspired me to planning a swap around this colours!

(Here is my fabric and pattern just after Josie had picked them for me, along with a couple of other suggestions!)

I had a bit of a go at editing my photos for Scout differently this time around. I decided to crop closer and use our outside wall. I've still got some work to do but I've been reading up on Gillian's Better Photo's Project and I've been bugging Piemaker about getting me a tripod. (Partly so he doesn't have to act as photographer all the time.) so I can get the details and practice in to do nicer images.

Still not into posing though! I'd have loved a closer photo of the fabric to give you an idea of how beautiful it is. This felt like a really luxury item for me. Simple construction, but I focused on doing it well. Next time I may go for French seams all round but with this version I overlocked in a tight overcast stitch and hemmed.

I did make a version of this as a wearable muslin which I will blog at a later date. I made some quite dramatic changes to this one but I'm much happier with the fit. I narrowed the shoulder seam and sleeve head by 1.5 inches each! A total of 3 inches out of the top of the armhole. I needed the space in the sleeve itself but in the first version the sleeves slid way to far off my shoulders. This is much better and makes the shirt sit correctly. I also sliced into the waist taking 2 inches off of each side of my waist. Like my hemlock, it was just too loose. I suppose I could've cut a smaller size and done an FBA but the bust was a nice fit as was the neckline and I thought I'd overcomplicate things.

If I made it again I might lengthen it, the overcast hem is nice but if I folded it over and hemmed it the traditional way I think it would be a touch too short for my liking.

 (That's one of my pet hates in rtw tops too!)

Stats:

Fabric and Pattern: Provided by Fabric Godmother with a discount in return for review

Wearability: 10/10

This top is 100% going into my honeymoon wardrobe, cool, breathable and with a truly stunning print!

Don't forget you can buy Josie's Dream Wardrobe tailor made experience from her shop £39 per month and Josie will handpick you a fabric and pattern.

 You can choose how often you want it from just a one off to a monthly treat for a year!

Review: Fabric Godmother's Dream Wardrobe (With 10% Discount Code!)

Nestled in beautiful Hove is the headquarters for the UK Online fabric store "Fabric Godmother." Owned by the lovely Josie. From the studio she runs small classes and enable sewers everywhere with beautiful, quality fabric sold with copious love and great advice!

I was thrilled that Josie was so nearby and I'd just read up on her brilliant new service "Dream Wardrobe" I got in touch and Josie invited me to try the service from her lovely bright studio. 

The studio (converted from an old school classroom,) is a bright cheery space with fabric to catch your eye at any angle! 

I particularly loved looking at the sample garment rail. Also how cute is the Periodic Table of Sewing Elements? 

I need one of these!

The idea of Dream Wardrobe is that the customer does a short questionnaire online, enclosing a photo of their favourite outfit and perhaps a Pinterest link to their style board. From this Josie really is your personal fabric godmother, picking a pattern and fabric specifically tailored to you and then given to you at a greatly discounted price of £39. These can be bought as a monthly treat for up to a year. 

(A free month if you go for that annual option!) Some of her fabrics are in excess of £25pm and so you really can get a great deal even on her designer fabrics!

Josie is one of those people who I felt at ease with straight away. We sat with a cup of tea and went through the questions for Dream Wardrobe in person, but Josie assures me you get this same style of service through emails directly to her. Josie takes into account your job, lifestyle, Body shape and personal preferences within the questionnaire. This allows her a good rounded idea of your likes and dislikes, she also checks what patterns you've made recently as not to double up!

When we finished the questionnaire I waited as Jodie thoughtfully wandered from shelf to shelf pulling fabrics and patterns that she felt fit my personality and style.

She spent a lot of time considering these and if I was to do this through the website I would be safe in the knowledge that Josie really takes time and thought over what to pick for her clients. Josie picked 7 different options for me, she tells me she likes to give people options. 

I have to say I was delighted with her choices! Not all of them were garments I would've picked for myself but her pattern and colour combinations were inspired! She pulled out a varied range of pattern designers including Casmerette, Colette, Grainline and Sewaholic. The fabrics she chose were divine! I had a very hard time picking just one! She talked me through how this works as an ongoing subscription too. Saying she likes to work so that the packs she picks will work with each other. So as an example she picked a purple ponte Morris Blazer, with a viscose Scout tee and a berry crepe Hollyburn skirt as three potential packs for me. 

This is how I love to work and is reminiscent of the 3 and 6 pac options sewn by capsule wardrobe sewers.

I eventually decided on a Scout Tee as  my love for Grainline is well documented in a beautiful buttery viscose. This was inspired by Josie's beautiful version up on her blog. I can't wait to sew this!

i'm sure it will be up on the blog soon!

Josie showed me a sneak preview of the newly delivered fabrics, boy are you all in for a treat! She has kindly offered readers 10% off fabrics at Fabric Godmother with the code BEEBEE10


Overall this was a great experience, Josie told me that she has an open day now and then for people to come and see the studio. I'll definitely be going to the next one!


*Josie was very kind and offered me a discounted one month for this review

Completed: Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank, Sans Pocket...

Can you tell I'm desperate for Spring yet? This is a Grainline Tiny Pocket Tank sans pocket in a lovely light airy silk lawn. I used the same fabric for an Archer just in a different colourway. I bought masses of it years ago from Ditto in Brighton and I'm glad I did. I could live in this stuff! Soft and buttery with a lovely drape...

I'm finding myself picking more subdued, simpler shapes these days. I find a good fabric does the talking for itself and you can't get simpler than this top! I love Grainline patterns. The styles just speak to me and I always seem to make multiples of anything they release.

I know I'm slow on the uptake with this one but I can see plenty more in my future. I own a Boden top in a similar style and I wear it a lot for work. This is a little too sheer but it will be great for warm days.

I was always conscious loose airy tops weren't for me and you remember me saying I was concerned about that pale pink? Well it strikes again! I'm pushing myself out the comfort zone on both counts with this one. But the pattern allows the fabric to be the star and I like that. Not to mention the yardage is fairly minimal, (Just watch the bias tape though!) This came together in an evening and will be perfect for our honeymoon. I do feel more comfortable wearing it with a cropped cardigan. It just needs some waist definition. I may bring it in slightly at the waist but I don't want to mess with the silhouette too much.

As per usual Pixel wanted to be involved Its pretty impossible to take a photo without him popping in just at the right time!

Stats!

Fabric: 1.5m of Silk Lawn bought at Ditto 2010? Definitely stash

Notions: Stash

Wearability: 9/10 Its a fabulous top! So comfy, fits my aesthetic right now perfectly and I will be wearing it all summer! It has to have a really good press before wearing and that knocks it down a point.

Completed: New Look 6922

Stevie? Finished something?! Surely not!

Surely yes! I have actually got a backlog of projects for the first time in ages but the miserable British weather is not conducive to beautiful sunny photos right now. These will have to do. I just realised you haven't seen my new glasses. I'm still not 100% sure about them but hey. There is just a distinct hit of Deirdre Barlow.

So anyway, this top NL 6922 I made 100 years ago and loved it. I wore it to death. (Version  1 2 here) I also forgot that I hacked at the pattern in my more naïve days. Turns out pattern hacking was a bit too zealous that day. I dropped the shoulders and didn't adjust the neckline. I was also a few stone heavier back then and I didn't really account for that either.

With that said I do like how comfy this top is and it will do for lounging around the house. Its a lovely pale pink colour I used to avoid like the plague. I loved it I just felt it wasn't flattering.

I've now decided I don't care and I'm building my collection of pretty rose coloured tops!

As this is a wadder of sorts I only bothered to edit two photos. I liked the fabric but it was cheap from fabricland and its not thick enough the be flattering. I won't be using this pattern again unless I can re purchase it as I need to do an FBA and can't be arsed to figure out what the hell I did to the shoulders at the time. I still use the cardigan and pants pieces from this pattern so I'm sure it won't be the last time you see the number.

Stats Time!

Fabric: Fabricland special £2.99pm lets say 1.5 m

Notions: Stash

Wearability: 3/10 It will do for pyjamas.